Category Archives: Oregon

Willamette Wonders and Wineries

Too much wine? I think not…

The lush Willamette Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) is Oregon’s largest wine region, stretching more than 100 miles from Portland in northern Oregon to Eugene, and boasting over 21,000 acres of vineyards and over 500 wineries. The Willamette Valley is know for it’s pinot noir and pinot gris, but also chardonnay, riesling, pinot blanc, and a handful of other grapes.

Less than an hour drive from Portland, a visit to the tasting rooms and scenic vineyards is easily accessible.  Staying downtown Portland, we decided to rely on other responsible drivers to chauffeur, so we arranged four different tours for this getaway: two wine, one scenic nature, and one half day city tour/half day of wineries. It was a good mix of activities albeit a little wine-heavy. We might have gotten carried away…but hey it was birthday week!

We used three different companies and had four different drivers over the four days to mix it up. We met some friendly people, learned about Portland and Oregon, the mountains and falls, and tasted some very nice vino.

An early morning pickup resulted in a little sightseeing along the way. On our first stop was about 10-15 minutes out of downtown Portland, the historic Pittock Mansion which is now a museum.Pittock was once owned by Henry Pittock, best known for for being the successful newspaper publisher and owner of The Oregonian. newspaper which is still the Portland daily newspaper. He built a financial empire by investing in real estate, banking, railroads, steamboats, sheep ranching, silver mining, and the paper industry. Henry was an avid outdoorsman, bicycle enthusiast, and was among the first group to climb Mount Hood, a Renaissance man.

The mansion is a 16,000 square foot French Renaissance style home designed to capture the view of downtown Portland and the Cascade Mountains. Panoramic views and modern conveniences were the distinctive features of this luxurious home completed in 1914.  

We enjoyed touring the home, lodge, and grounds. The tour is a great way to get a feel for the history of Portland, see some fantastic panoramic views of the city and river, and there is a unique little gift shop.

There is also a scenic 5 mile hike from Lower MacLeay Park Trailhead to the Pittock Mansion. For information on the moderate level hike, click here.

From Pittock Mansion, it’s just another half hour west to wine country.  Along the way you will see many filbert orchards which are the same as hazelnuts – think Nutella. Oregon boasts an ideal climate for growing the most hazelnuts in the United States due to the temperate ocean, mountain and river climates, and rich volcanic soil. Who knew? But we do like hazelnuts, so we picked up a few bags….spicy, salty, plain or chocolate covered. It’s all good.

Hazelnut/Filbert shells

Oregon also produces the hybrid Marion Blackberry, referred to as the Marionberry which we enjoyed frequently over our visit. It is the Cabernet of Blackberries, larger, sweeter and juicer. Unfortunately, a well kept Oregon secret, we do not see them in the Midwest. Rhubarb was also on the menu literally everywhere. Really people, why is rhubarb even a thing?

Alpacas seem to be indigenous to the valley, being raised for their fibers, petting, and photo opportunities.

So now, on to the good stuff. Wine tasting in the Willamette Valley.  

Over the three wine centric tours and many wineries we visited, our number one favorite is Domain Drouhin in Dundee, where the motto is French Soul, Oregon Soil. We love the Drouhin Family wines from Burgundy and have visited Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, France, which has been in the family for 130 years. We met the winemaker’s daughter Laurene working in the Oregon winery on an internship, so we bought a bottle of the 2014 Laurene Pinot Noir which she very graciously autographed.

Laurene Drouhin signs Laurene 2014 Pinot Noir

Kathy, Laurene Drouhin, & John

Another new favorite is Blizzard Wines in Hillsboro. The Blizzard tasting room is fairly new and gorgeous. Mary, our wine hostess prepared delectable snacks for us to enjoy while she regaled us with tales of the winemaker Dana Blizzard. A little wine, cheese and chocolate inspired us to ship home a half case of the 2016 Blizzard Pinot Gris and 2015 Blizzard Cabernet Sauvignon.

Blizzard Wines upper tasting party room

Hazelnuts for two

Ruby Vineyard in Hillsboro produces pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay, and rosé from 7.25 acres of Old Vines on Laurelwood soil. Ruby had a great relaxing vibe and easy chatty staff who kept our glasses full. Our first stop, it was peaceful and bucolic.

Ruby Vineyard, Hillsboro

View from Ruby VineyardChehalem

Chehalem Wines has a comfortable tasting room in Newberg. We had their wines with dinner in a few different restaurants in Portland. It was no contest to stop in here, enjoy a flight and bring home a bottle of their 2015 Corral Creek Pinot Noir for the Chehalem Mountains AVA. They also produce pinot blanc, chardonnay, and grüner veltliner, which I really enjoyed.

Árdíri Winery in Cornelius is where the locals go. They’re open late, have an amazing outdoor space to drink wine, picnic, enjoy the fire pits, play games and watch the sunset over Mount Hood. Their vines originate from Burgundy and produce remarkable red, white and rosé wines.

View of Mount Hood from Árdíri’

A suitable birthday present at Árdíri Winery, as John lives to ride his bicycle

We spent some time chatting with Steve at Styring Vineyards in Newberg. It is a boutique winery and extremely casual, but very comfortable and great wines. We bought their artisan 2013 Styring Estate Pinot Noir.

Styring casual tasting room

Soléna Estate winery is gorgeous and their host Jason Werner very welcoming. We had a lovely elegant picnic lunch on their patio while Jason poured scrumptious tastes for us. Our favorite is the 2015 Domaine Danielle Laurent Chardonnay.  They have events here sometimes more than once a week and their entertaining space is extraordinary.  Jason was traveling to Chicago the following week to pour their wines at Beacon Tavern during Pinot in the City Days, so I guess their pinots have already been discovered.

View from Soléna

Dominio IV Winery distinctive barn

Dominio IV  biodynamic wines in Carlton, Oregon are very memorable. Our wine host Todd sat down with us over every pour in their farmhouse tasting room to discuss the wines and to talk about the winemakers and the vineyards.

Taste diagram for 2008 Dominio IV Syrah (please excuse flash photography)

Dominio IV is very creative. They have an Imagination series of wine with labels painted to describe how the wines taste.  Imagine if Georgia O’Keeffe painted each label to visually represent a wine’s taste, the tannins, the texture, the acidity? A water color of flowing lines and shapes to guide you through the flavors and how they hit your palate.

We love this winery, the 2012 Tango Tempranillo, and especially their 2013 The Black and the Red Pinot Noir.  Tasting Notes:  It is she of the volcanic soils who glides in rhythm, in her own time. She dances in flowing gowns of red raspberry and bright strawberry. The wind is not to be discounted, for he brings the dance of power, black as night. Jos ,press are made of flint, but he holds her soft hand as if he held the razor’s edge. The dance of 50% Bella Vida and 50% Menefee Vineyard.   Perfection!

There was so much more wine and food involved in this getaway and most of it was pretty darn tasty. Most of all we made delicious memories in the Willamette Valley. I hope this has inspired you to visit the Willamette Valley, taste, and make your own memories. C’est Tout!

Mount Hood over the vineyards

Mount Hood, Oregon

Why do wines grown in volcanic soil just taste so good? Terroir brings together the nature of the ground and soil, elevation, slope, rain, wind, climate and local microclimate. There are so many variables for grape farmers to develop, and winemakers to capitalize on.

The Columbia River Valley has five volcanoes: Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, and Mount Rainier.

 

Keep Portland Unique

Keep Portland Weird is a thing – like Keep Austin Weird, but after a recent visit, we have decided Portland is just really unique.

Oh yeah, there are plenty of weird things, like this business that sells Bonus pants next to the portapotties, but hey, support small business!

Portland and the Oregon wine country have been on our getaway list for quite some time. Our travel to do list is pretty long, so we had just not prioritized it. First world problems I know, but LeBonVieTravels has a strategy. Besides planning summer and winter vacations, we observe birthdays with getaways rather than gifts. Birthdays are a good excuse to check out new restaurants, enjoy dessert, and taste a little wine, perhaps more than usual. So Hubby’s birthday celebration was a late spring holiday in Portland.

Our hotel stay was at The Nines, where hubs had arranged a suite upgrade with SPG – yes! Nothing says celebration like a little luxury and a view.

Pioneer Courthouse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Nines is across the street from the Pioneer Courthouse and Square and very walkable to everything.  

Animals in Pools by American artist Georgia Gerber

On the maybe a little weird side, downtown Portland seems to have a lot of bronze sculptures of beavers and other Pacific Northwest wildlife, but the beaver is Oregon’s state animal as well as the Oregon State University football team – so that’s what that is all about.

 

 

Portland is an incredible little city with 5 quadrants: Southwest, Northwest, Southeast, Northeast, and North. The Willamette River divides the city between west and east.  Burnside Street crosses the river on the Burnside Bridge and divides the city into north and south. It’s known as the City of Bridges and also the City of Roses.

Morrison Bridge

 

 

We saw many bridges but it was too early for roses in May, unless they were on the side of a building.

 

 

 

 

 

Portland is less than an hour drive from the lush Willamette Valley wine country with over 19,000 acres of vineyards and over 500 wineries and tasting rooms. By the way, the correct pronunciation of Willamette as it relates to the Oregon wine region is Will-AM-it as in It’s Will-AM-it, damit!, which we heard many many times from Oregonians who thought they were very humorous.  Willamette Valley’s lush beauty and wineries is worth it’s own blog post, so more on that later.

The weather during our visit was amazing! Portland is estimated to have approximately 144 days of sunshine per year, and we used up almost 6 of them.

We walked down to the Willamette River waterfront where the birthday boy frolicked in the fountain (note to self – John will take on almost any dare even in a dress shirt).

 

One lane for walkers, two for bikes

Biketown Swoosh

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We admired the separate pedestrian and bike lanes, and the Biketown Nike sponsored bike sharing system, because Portland is all about cycling.

 

Chinatown

Southpark Seafood

 

 

 

 

 

Like most cities, Portland has many interesting signs and plenty of street art,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

unique paver sidewalk filled with famous quotes,

and lush city parks that continue for blocks.

We checked out some of the 52 Benson Bubblers that bubble water continuously. Twenty of these historic fountains date back to 1912 when philanthropist Simon Benson donated them to the city in the hope that they would reduce the consumption of alcoholic beverages during lunch breaks, and to ensure drinking water for everyone.

Benson Bubblers water fountains throughout Portland streets bubbling 365 days a years.

And of course we saw many clusters of food trucks, 

however, our first delicious lunch stop was Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Every time we walked past Luc Lac, there were lines out the door, but we arrived at 11:15, literally minutes before the lunch crowd, ordered and were seated within 5 minutes.  The food was AMAZING. Lucky lucky at Luc Lac.

Shrimp balls on sugar cane sticks & the BEST wontons in the world

Steak skewers with chili peanut sauce

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MAPLE BACON!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We obviously did not count calories at all this week, so we also enjoyed Voodoo Donuts which is a Portland given…and saw people carrying those distinctive pink boxes all over town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our hotel was conveniently about a block from Moonstruck Chocolate, home of luscious truffle treats, so yes we tasted a little of the cocoa confections.

There are a number of markets, but the big market is the Portland Saturday Market…where you can go on Sunday. Weird – right?  We went on Sunday and it was super cool.  Down near the waterfront and the Burnside Bridge, there is summer, sunshine, entertainment, food vendors, and lots of shopping.

 

 

Portlandians love brunch and therefore on Sunday we brunched at Mother’s Bistro. At Mother’s, it’s made with Love.

 

We rode the trolley and got off in the Pearl District to shop at Powell’s City of Books, which covers a whole city block. OMGoodness. If anyone can bring back reading real physical books, it’s Powells.  We loved this store! It has more books than a library – they say a million. They sell new and used books because Powells buys back books, and they sell other cool stuff like cards, notebooks, t-shirts, bags and travel accessories. Can’t say enough about Powells.

May was a bit soon for peak rose season, but the Lan Su Chinese Garden downtown was an amazing alternative. It is a photographer’s paradise as the gardens were designed to create scenes framed within scenes and framed again. Beautiful and oddly peaceful for being right in the heart of the city.

 

 

 

 

The Teahouse in the Tower of Cosmic Reflections offers tea and snacks if you decide to just stay, meditate and enjoy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As part of a city tour, we were brought up to the top of the medical district where we took an aerial tram ride down to the waterfront. The Oregon Health and Science University campus has grown so large that they operate two campus’ connected by the aerial tram.

The tram is free if you ride it from the Marquam Hill neighborhood down to the South Waterfront. So if you can get someone to drive you up to the top….it’s a cool panoramic vista at the upper station.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stephen Stills & Judy Blue Eyes Collins

 

 

We were very fortunate to snag tickets to a sold out Stephen Stills & Judy Collins concert at Revolution Hall. Revolution is a old high school that has been converted into a 850 seat performing arts venue with a rooftop bar and another bar right off the main floor seating area. It was intimate, had great acoustics, and Judy’s voice was amazing as ever as she hit the high notes in Both Sides Now.  Definitely check out the Revolution Hall website for the calendar of events if you will be in town.

The Eagles were scheduled to play at the Moda Center, home of the Portland Trailblazers, but unfortunately rescheduled. There are many concerts and events at Moda, so check their events calendar if you’re coming to town.

Our week was full of winery and city tours, an excursion to Mount Hood and the Gorge, and a historic concert. We packed so much into six days that Portland could be the topic of many blog posts and we definitely plan to visit again soon.

Stay tuned for some serious wine tasting and beautiful Oregon scenery.

I wonder how hubs will top this week when my birthday rolls around?  C’est tout!