Norway in a Nutshell Adventure

We woke up early on our fourth day in country to continue on our Norway excursion, and to catch the 6:25 Bergen train. Our Norway In A Nutshell began gray and rainy, and very grateful to be warm and cosy on the train instead of sightseeing Oslo. The train passed through the scenic terrain west, through little towns built along the railway, and the fjords. It was about a 5-1/2 hour trip to the town of Myrdal, where we disembarked to wait for the legendary Flåm Railway train.

Myrdal 866,8 meters over sea level (for comparison, Chicago is 181 meters over sea level)

We descended onto a platform with 360 degree mountain views, and a misty rain. Much colder in Flåm, we quickly pulled out puffy coats for the 40 minute wait. Passengers paced back and forth across the platform with their luggage, trying to determine the best place to stand.

When the bright green Flåmsbana train showed up, everyone jostled to board quickly. The seats were not reserved, and a window seat is preferred for the scenery to come. Our itinerary stated this ride offers spectacular panoramic views to some of the wildest and most magnificent nature in the Norwegian fjord landscape. Not an exaggeration, there were also flat screened monitors to provide clues of what you were about to experience, and a pre-recorded narration as well. Besides a few tiny station stops for locals, our first stop was a large platform where everyone disembarked for the Kjosfossen Waterfall. This waterfall is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Norway, with a total fall of around 738 ft. There is a small power station on the waterfall used to power the Flåm Line railway. During the stop, an actress dressed as Huldra (a seductive forest creature in Scandinavian folklore), dances and sings in front of the waterfall. When everyone had their fill of photos, we climbed back to our seats and continued the journey.

Hulda – click below for video

 

 

The Flåmsbana chugged on for almost an hour, past scenic panoramas, waterfalls, and colorful housing enclaves, before we reached the town of Flåm. The train slowed down for a view of the main town with the church on its way to the Flåm harbor.

Flåm, Norway – population 350

 

 

Plus one very photogenic horse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flåm harbor is is where the action is, and where you are held captive until the next leg of your journey. The harbor is a beehive of activity and tourists; home to the Mall of Norway, restaurants, tourist office, cruise and ferry line docking, a little red tourist train, Flam Railway MuseumFjord Safari rib boat tours, a hotel, a park, and more shopping.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Social media starved tourists taking birdie photos

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had booked the Bergen Express Boat to ferry us 10 minutes up the Aurslandsfjorden to the Vangsgaarden Gjestgiveri hotel in Aursland for the evening. The customizable Norway in a Nutshell tour can be completed in less than a day, but we broke up the trip so that we could relax, explore, and engage in a few activities.  The express boat schedule left us with a couple hours to to entertain ourselves at Flåm Harbor, so we dropped off our rollers and backpacks at the luggage hut, enjoyed a grilled sausage lunch on the patio, took photos, and shopped.

People start lining up for the express boat about a half hour before boarding time, queueing in order to  get the best seat. We were only cruising for 10 minutes, but we snagged the front two seats by the door, which we later bequeathed to the friendly elderly couple sitting behind us.

 

We chatted with the cheerful boat staff, who inquired about our plans. Engaging powerful bow thrusters, the boat barely slowed down in Aursland. The crew dropped the gang plank, and with a hearty farewell, deposited us on the deserted pier.

Aurland pier and ferry stop

 

Maps.me showed us the way to Vangsgaarden Giestgiveri hotel just a few blocks away. Again I was reminded it’s best to pack light. Most every town in Norway seems cobbled or hilly or both.  If I could pack just a backpack, I would…but shoes happen.

We could not have chosen a more perfect hotel for a break. Vangsgaarden Giestgiveri is historic, charming, and recently remodeled with cozy rooms, great views, comfortable beds, and an interesting collection of cottages, buildings, and lawn areas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View from our room

 

 

 

 

living room

 

Breakfast room

One of the resident kitties prowling for attention

Reception

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before dinner we took a little walk around town, through the lovely churchyard and down to the river.

No quarters needed for a reindeer ride

Skipping rocks…

Vangen Church

After walking around the grounds and town, we were ready for an early dinner. Duehaset Pub opens at six, so like the other eager, parched guests, we queued up promptly at opening, just steps from the hotel front door. The patio was open with a magnificent view of the fjord, built in heaters, and a retractable roof.

Toasting our good fortune at Duehaset Pub

 

 

Birthday month dessert – keep them coming

Norwegian salmon – yum!

 

 

After a tasty dinner, a well deserved night of quiet peaceful sleep, and a Norwegian buffet breakfast, we were rested and ready for the next day of adventures on the fjords.

Aabelheim Breakfast House

 

C’est tout!

 

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